To the market of Ocotlán

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On Friday mornings, Ocotlán de Morelos' core turns into one of the region's biggest and best markets. Located about 35 kilometres south of Oaxaca's centre, it is definitely worth the trek. I've been to it a couple of times and decided to visit again June 17.

Turkeys, goats, tlayudas, kitchen supplies, cacao, belts, wild herbs, knives, soft-skinned avocados, aguas, bread, mezcal, bags, dresses, flowers, papayas, cazuelas, furniture, mangoes – the market is full of local specialties and things needed for life in Oaxaca.

My nose was occupied throughout. Every inhalation brought a new scent. One moment, fresh guavas. The next, fresh animal dung.

Hunger growled from my stomach while I was there, so an important stop was the prepared food area. Tacos, moles, tlayudas and stews were available from dozens of stands.

I stopped at La Cocina de Frida, an homage to Frida Kahlo and run by Beatriz Vásquez Goméz who looks strikingly like the famous artist.

I ordered an estofado de pollo, a chicken stew with olives. It was light and tasty, and I wiped every last bit of it off the plate with my tortillas. As our lunch took place before normal comida hours when Váscez hadn't yet made her chiles rellenos, she insisted that my companions and I at least try the stuffing, a tomato-based dish that I would highly recommend if it's available.

Sated, I continued to wander through the market, picking up a few supplies for my home. A bunch of basil for 2.50 pesos. A bag of honey for 15. About 20 tomatoes for 10 pesos. A quarter-kilo of roasted cacao beans for 10 pesos, as well. The prices were low, and the quality was top notch.

So if you get the chance, Ocotlán's market is a great stop to make in the Oaxaca area. Tours and taxis are always available for transport.

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