La Encantada - Orchid Garden
It takes just that little bit longer to hard boil an egg in one of the highest restaurants in the Sierra Juarez, but Mario Hernandez Cruz, the pueblos ecotourism manager tells me its well worth the wait and whilst doing just that, he takes the opportunity to tell me about the philosophy behind Benito Juarez and why it has become one of Oaxacas most visited pueblos.
Benito Juarez is one of the eight towns that form the Pueblos Mancomunados of the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca an outstanding example of community social organisation in Mexico. Nature trails integrate a network of more than 100 km of sign-posted rural footpaths and country roads suitable for hikers and bikers, designed specifically to show visitors the most relevant aspects of the exceptional beauty of this area.
The nature trails of the Pueblos Mancomunados represent an effort of cooperation between the communities, to foster a responsible use of their natural resources and the preservation of forests, considered amongst the richest and most varied in the country. The project puts money back into the community, ensuring there is employment but more importantly, sustainable development.
The population of 650 makes most of its living through selling flowers (margaritas, lilies and gladioli) in the market in Oaxaca. Land that is farmed for maize and potatoes is usually done so just to feed the village so tourism is an essential source of income.
The clean, fresh air of the cool, pine tufted mountaintops combined with reliable beams of sunlight means that Benito Juarez provides the perfect escape for Oaxacans from the stifling heat of the city. We receive between 250-300 visitors a month, but we very seldom let the numbers get higher than this so that we can protect the environment and let things grow back. We dont want our village to be a rubbish tip 15 years from now, but at the same time we want to share the beauty. Its a fine balancing act.
Cruz insists that there are no quiet periods and advises that booking for weekends is essential and goes one step further to explain exactly why. Benito Juarez enjoys some of the clearest skies in the Northern Hemisphere and the lack of city light makes you feel like a stone throw away from the edge of infinity. The turist yuu cabin with the glass roof allows you to enjoy all this without feeling the cold.
One of Benito Juarezs best selling points to me is not even mentioned in he promotional material. Its the perfect opportunity to see Oaxaca at work in the rural areas (pictures above). Sowing maize, picking flowers and making tlayudas are just some of the local activities, which you can witness in a safe, welcoming environment.
The Routes
4 routes ranging in time from 2 hours to the course of a whole day are on offer. El Mirador is the highest point in Benito Juarez and on a clear day offers views of El Pico de Orizaba - Citlaltépetl in Veracruz. Las Cascadas provide a cool refreshing alternative as the name suggests. There is also a new route unenticingly named la ciénega, (the swamp), but Cruz insists that all the routes are as good as each other, just different.
Lodging
Cabanas can be hired at 130 pesos per person or 400 per family (4 beds) per night.
The turist yuu is 110 pesos per person per night.
Food
There are 3 restaurants in the centre all serving local dishes using ingredients de la region (except chilli, sugar, tomato). Expect to pay no more than 40 pesos for a seriously filling meal in the evening.
Activities
Bicycles, horses and guides are all available should you wish to give your trip a little variation. Cruz informs us that the horses are very well mannered and the guides are locals hence the money goes back into the community.
If time allows, cycling from Benito Juarez all the way down to Teotitlan is a must. Its a 25 mile freewheel and a drop of 1000m with breathtaking views of the valley, Teotitlan and Oaxaca. Just remember to bring your own bike or youll have to cycle back up to return it
For more information please visit www.sierranorte.org.mx or
www.aoaxaca.com/alternativo
or phone 01 951 514 8271
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