By Maiya Shur

 

So, you came to Oaxaca in search of the famous moles? I know I did. But unexpectedly, I discovered a lovely French café that serves delicious, organic, reasonably priced fare from the owner Christophe Tessier’s native Bordeaux.

I came for a cup of orange passion tea with tangy flor de Jamaica, but stayed for the fluffy quiche with leek. And then I stayed a little longer for the goat cheese and spinach stuffed chicken - golden and crunchy on the outside, soft and creamy on the inside - served in a delicate mushroom sauce that I mopped up with the golden crust of the French bread just baked that morning.

I would have stayed even longer - maybe moved from my table to a couch, maybe even picked up a New Yorker off the rack of magazines for the homesick ex-pat, but I was afraid I’d be too tempted by the crepas dulces, or the truffles. Or maybe a martini.

A year and a half ago, Christophe opened Café Royal. Housed in a 17th century bell house, one of the oldest colonial buildings in Oaxaca, Café Royal is the only French restaurant around.
The cuisine here stands on its own, and not just as an alternative to mole. Café Royal serves tasty, flavorful, and well-priced French food.

Visit Café Royal: 403 Garcia Vigil and M. Bravo; M-Sat 8-11, & Sun 10-9; Breakfast: $35; Sandwiches: $35; Entrees: $45-85; Wireless.